1. Prepare for the job:

Gather the necessary tools and supplies for the job, including a jack stand, a jack, a wrench, a socket set, a screwdriver, a pair of safety glasses, and a new shock absorber.

2. Lift the bike:

Use the jack stand and jack to lift the bike off the ground. Make sure that the bike is stable and secure before you begin working.

3. Disconnect the shock absorber:

Locate the shock absorber mount and loosen the bolts that hold it in place. Gently pull the shock absorber away from the frame and disconnect the electrical wiring, if applicable.

4. Install the new shock absorber:

Place the new shock absorber in the mounting bracket and secure it with the bolts. Reconnect the electrical wiring, if applicable.

5. Test the shock absorber:

Lower the bike to the ground and test the new shock absorber by bouncing the bike up and down several times. If the shock absorber is functioning correctly, it should absorb the shock and keep the bike from bouncing.

6. Clean up:

Once the job is complete, be sure to clean up your work area and dispose of any used parts or tools.

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1. Put on your safety gloves and safety glasses.

2. Locate the exhaust pipe on the motorcycle.

3. Remove the exhaust pipe by using a socket wrench to loosen the bolts and a screwdriver to remove the mounting brackets.

4. Clean the area around the exhaust pipe with a clean rag and a cleaner to remove any debris or dirt.

5. Place the new exhaust pipe in the same position as the old one.

6. Secure the exhaust pipe with the mounting brackets and the bolts.

7. Place a new gasket between the exhaust pipe and the engine.

8. Use exhaust pipe clamps to attach the exhaust pipe securely to the engine.

9. Apply high temperature sealant to the joint between the exhaust pipe and the engine.

10. Allow the sealant to dry and then start the motorcycle to check for any leaks.

11. If there are no leaks, the exhaust pipe has been installed successfully.

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1. Remove the cables from the carburetor and intake manifold:
Remove the carburetor and intake manifold from the snowmobile. If necessary, separate the carburetor from the intake manifold. Once the carburetor and intake manifold are separated, locate the throttle and choke cables. Unscrew the nuts or clamps that hold the cables in place. Pull the cables out of the carburetor and intake manifold.

2. Remove the cables from the throttle and choke levers:
Once the cables are free from the carburetor and intake manifold, remove them from the throttle and choke levers. To do this, remove the cable ends from the levers, using a small flathead screwdriver or pliers.

3. Install the new cables:
Once the old cables are removed, you can install the new ones. Start by attaching the cable ends to the throttle and choke levers. Make sure the cable ends are securely attached. Once the cable ends are attached, route the cables through the carburetor and intake manifold. Make sure the cables are routed in the same way as the old ones.

4. Secure the cables:
Once the cables are routed, secure them in place with the nuts or clamps.

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1. Lift the ATV and place it on jack stands. Make sure the ATV is securely on the stands before you begin.

2. Remove the wheel and tire from the ATV. This will allow you to access the axle more easily.

3. Disconnect the axle from the drive axle by removing the connecting bolts. You may need to use a wrench or socket set for this.

4. Remove the axle from the ATV. You will need to slide it out of the wheel hub and then out of the rear axle housing.

5. Install the new axle into the rear axle housing. Make sure the axle is properly aligned and secured in the housing.

6. Reattach the axle to the drive axle with the connecting bolts and tighten them securely.

7. Reinstall the wheel and tire on the ATV.

8. Lower the ATV off the jack stands and test the ATV to make sure the axle is working properly.

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1. Replacement: Replacing ATV brake calipers is the most direct and effective method of repair. First, the wheels must be removed from the ATV and the brake pads should be taken out. The caliper should then be unbolted from the ATV’s frame and the brake lines should be disconnected. The new caliper should then be installed, the brake lines reconnected, and the wheels should be reinstalled.

2. Disassembly and Cleaning: If the caliper is not too severely damaged, it may be possible to disassemble, clean, and reassemble the caliper for repair. This involves removing the caliper from the ATV, disassembling the caliper, and cleaning all of the components. The caliper should then be reassembled and reinstalled on the ATV.

3. Repair and Rebuild: If the caliper is too severely damaged for repair, it may be possible to rebuild it with new parts. This involves removing the caliper from the ATV, disassembling the caliper, and replacing any worn or damaged parts. The caliper should then be reassembled and reinstalled on the ATV.

4. Adjustment: If the caliper is not too severely damaged, it may be possible to adjust it for repair. This involves adjusting the caliper’s mounting bolts to ensure the caliper is properly aligned and operating correctly. It may also involve adjusting the caliper’s brake pads to ensure they are properly engaged with the rotor when the brakes are applied.

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1. Clean/Remove existing oils, greases anti-corrosion coatings
   • Cleaning and removing any existing oils, greases and coatings will eliminate any potential incompatibilities that may occur between the existing product and the new lubricant. Additionally, a clean contact surface inside the bearing will enhance the wetting capability and performance of the new lubricating film.
   • Many bearing companies will provide their products pre-coated with oil film or anti-corrosion coating. If this coating has a micro-thickness and is compatible with your chosen lubricant, then you may not need to pre-clean the bearing.
   • Should you need to remove the existing lubricant or clean the bearing you may use a non-residual solvent-based product to clean the bearing surfaces.
2. Calculate the required fill quantity for your bearing
   • The correct lubricant quantity is determined by the design, operating speeds, reservoir volume and extent of sealing or shielding found in the application.
3. Fill the bearing
   • Now that you have cleaned the bearing and calculated the fill quantity, it is time to fill and run-in the bearing. It is important to always lubricate your bearings with clean, fresh grease and that the environment is clean and dry to minimise the risk of moisture or debris damaging the bearing.
4. Run-in the bearing
   • Once filled, it is vital to run-in the bearing to ensure its performance and longevity.
   • Start the bearing at a low speed. Aim for about 20% of the maximum operating speed.
   • Increase speed incrementally closely monitoring the temperature of the bearing ensuring a stable operating temperature.
   • Continue to increase the speed whilst monitoring the temperature until an equilibrium temperature is reached at the maximum operating speed.

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1. Clean The Throttle

Before diving into your throttle position sensor with a multimeter, you have to take some preliminary steps.

One of these is to clean your throttle, as it could be the debris on it that prevents it from opening or closing properly.

Disconnect the air cleaner assembler from the throttle position sensor and check the throttle plate and walls for any carbon buildup.

Dampen a rag with a carburetor cleaner and wipe away any debris where you see a build-up of it.

Once you have done this, ensure the throttle fully opens and closes properly.

It’s time to move to the throttle position sensor.

These wires or connector tabs are important for our tests.

If you’re having trouble finding the wires, see our guide on how to trace wires.

Check the TPS wires and terminals for damage and a build-up of dirt. Take care of any impurities and proceed to the next step.

2. Locate The Throttle Position Sensor Grounding 

Finding the throttle position grounding determines if you have a problem and also helps with subsequent tests.

Set your multimeter to the 20 DC voltage range, turn your ignition to the “on” position without starting the engine, and then place the red positive probe on the positive car battery post (tagged “+”).

Now, place the black negative probe on each of the TPS wire tabs or terminals.

You do this until one shows you a reading of 12 volts. This is your ground terminal and your TPS has passed this test.

3. Find The Reference Voltage Terminal

With your car ignition still in the “on” position and the multimeter set to the 10 DC voltage range, place the black lead on the ground TPS terminal and place the red lead on each of the other two terminals.

The terminal that presents you with about 5 volts is the reference voltage terminal.

If you don’t get any 5-volt reading, then there is a problem within your TPS circuit and you may check for loose or corroded wiring.

Connect the wires back into the throttle position sensors and move to the next step.

4. Test The TPS Signal Voltage 

The signal voltage test is the ultimate test that determines if your throttle position sensor is functioning properly or not.

It helps to diagnose whether the TPS accurately reads the throttle plate when it is fully open, halfway open, or closed.

Set the multimeter to the 10 DC voltage range, place the black probe on the ground TPS terminal, and place the red probe on the signal voltage terminal.

In this case, you use pins to back probe the wires (poke each TPS wire with a pin) and attach your multimeter probes to these pins (preferably using alligator clips).

The value displayed depends on the model of your TPS.

If the multimeter shows a reading of zero (0), you may still proceed to the next steps.

Gradually open the throttle plate and watch how the readings on the multimeter change.

Your multimeter is expected to display a steadily increasing value as you open up the throttle.

When the plate is fully open, the multimeter is also expected to display 5 volts (or 3.5 volts in some TPS models).

The TPS is not in good condition and needs to be changed if you experience the following:

• If the value massively skips while opening the plate.
• If the value gets stuck at a number for a long period.
• If the value doesn’t reach 5 volts when the throttle plate is fully opened
• If the value inappropriately skips or changes when you lightly tap the sensor with a screwdriver

All these are representations of a TPS that needs to be replaced.

However, if your throttle position sensor is an adjustable model, like those found in older vehicles, then there is more to do before deciding to replace the sensor.

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1. A Clogged Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) Valve

The PCV valve is connected to an air intake housing via an often-rubber vacuum hose used to provide a vacuum release inside the engine’s crankcase. This component is typically installed on top of a cylinder head valve cover, where pressure flows from the engine’s bottom half, through the cylinder heads, and exits into the air intake. The PCV valve is similar to an engine oil filter in that it eventually becomes clogged with excessive debris (in this case — engine oil) and should be replaced as recommended by your vehicle’s manufacturer. If the PCV valve is not replaced as recommended, excessive oil will blow through the PCV valve and enter the air intake system.

2. Worn Piston Rings

A second potential source of engine oil leaking into the air filter housing is due to worn piston rings. The piston rings are installed on the outer edge of the pistons inside the combustion chamber. The rings are intended to create a combustion ratio and permit small amounts of engine oil to continue lubricating the inner combustion chamber during each piston stroke. When rings wear out, they loosen and can cause oil ‘blow-by’ — usually displayed by blue smoke coming from the car’s tailpipe while driving. In the early stages of worn piston rings, excessive oil blow-by can cause excessive pressure to build inside the crankcase, which sends more oil through the PCV valve and eventually into the air intake, as stated above.

3. Clogged Oil Passages

The final possible reason engine oil will find its way into the air intake system and eventually clog the air filter is due to clogged oil passages. This symptom usually occurs when the engine oil and filter have not been replaced as recommended. It is caused by excessive carbon deposits or engine sludge developing inside the crankcase. When the oil does not flow efficiently, excessive engine oil pressure will be created and cause extra oil to push through the PCV valve and into the air intake.

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One of the first things you learn about when you start your driving endeavors is the mechanisms of the gas pedal and the brake. You may have learned this by playing an arcade car racing game, or maybe you learned it from your favorite cartoon as a child. We should know that taking care of your brakes is essential for your Clermont Toyota because driving with worn out brake pads is not a good idea. Toyota of Clermont experts explain what happens when your car brake pads are worn out , what brake pads are, and signs it’s time to replace them.

What are brake pads?

Brake pads are there to contact your rotors and cause friction to slow and stop your car.

Symptoms of worn brake pads.

• Grinding or squealing noise when you press the brake pedal (the brake pad material has deteriorated).
• On your newer Clermont Toyota cars, you will get a brake wear indicator on your dashboard when it’s time to check your brake pads.
• If you notice that it’s taking your Clermont Toyota longer than it usually does to stop, you need to replace your brake pads.
• Your brake pedal is vibrating when you press on; it is a sign that worn brake pads are likely the cause.

What happens when your car brake pads are worn out? Toyota of Clermont answers.

They cause slow response time.

Driving with worn out brake pads can cause a slow response time when braking, leading to your Clermont Toyota not braking quick enough. Therefore, getting your Clermont Toyota into the service center is essential to get your brake pads replaced to have a worry-free driving experience. A potential car accident is what happens when your car brake pads are worn out.

It can lead to damage to your tires.

However, one of the easiest and most expensive issues it could cause would be your Clermont Toyota tires. Simple enough, if you don’t have the proper cushion that is an effect of worn-down brake pads, you’ll have more rough stops driving with worn out brake pads, causing your tires to take a toll on them.

More severe damage to your brakes

The brake pads are just one aspect of a more extensive mechanism. They are the cushion against your brake rotors to create friction and slow down your wheels. Unfortunately, what happens when your car brake pads are worn out is it exposes the metal, and the metal on metal grinding can further damage the entire braking system through heat and possible breakage.

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