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The necessity of winter tire maintenance

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The necessity of winter tire maintenance
A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step and maintains the road
In the cold winter, it is inevitable that there will be snowstorms and icy roads. It is not only a test for the driving skills of riders, but also a test for the tires themselves. If you want to drive safely, the normal function of the tires is of course inseparable. Therefore, it is particularly important to pay attention to and adjust the condition of the tires.

Winter tire taboo

Safe driving requires “degree”
Avoid foreign bodies
When the temperature drops, the tires are prone to “stiff”, lose their elasticity, and their cushioning capacity is significantly reduced. When they hit sharp foreign objects, they are easy to burst.

Avoid sudden brakes
Low temperature makes the tires hard and brittle, starting too fast, sudden steering, emergency braking, etc., will cause serious wear of the tires and reduce the service life of the tires.
Avoid lack of breath
When the air pressure drops to a certain level, the deformation of the sidewall will increase. Once the tread pattern is excessively worn, the carcass will be distorted and deformed due to the inability to withstand the excessive pressure, resulting in a puncture.

Attention in winter
Seasonal for maintenance
Pay attention to tire pressure
Affected by thermal expansion and contraction, the air pressure in the winter tire will also decrease. The tire pressure should be increased appropriately to reduce the wear of the tire, but it must be controlled within an appropriate range to ensure that the front and rear treads are in full contact with the ground. Best grip effect.

Parking conditions

Avoid parking in areas with damp, stagnant water and potholes in low temperatures to prevent the accumulated water from freezing the tires due to the low temperature and affecting the service life of the tires.

Watch out for wear

Pay attention to the degree of tire wear. If you reach the point indicated by the wear mark, you must replace the tire, because the shallow tire pattern is not conducive to drainage, it is easy to slip in rain and snow, and there is a risk of air leakage.

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Some of the driving habits that can ruin a go kart clutch

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Driving too slowly. A clutch starts to engage around 2,000 rpm and will lock up around 2,600 rpm. Driving at full throttle gives the clutch a chance to cool down. Full throttle locks the shoes in the clutch against the drum. When the clutch is not locked up, the shoes slip against the drum causing tremendous heat which dries up the lubrication in the oil impregnated bushing. The tremendous amount of heat generated can also anneal the spring which is the heart of the clutch. If the shoes turn purple from excessive heat more than likely the clutch is ruined and the spring no longer has the ability to pull back the shoes at idle.

Short stop and go driving. The longer you drive at full throttle the better off it is for the clutch, because it gives it a chance to cool off before the next engagement.

Driving with the foot on the brake. This is a problem with new drivers that are unsure of themselves. When riding a go-kart for the first time, try to find an open area that has no obstacles that you have to maneuver around until you get use to the brake and gas pedals. The driver must first be able to build up his or her confidence on the kart before putting obstacles in their path. A small back yard is not a good place to learn to drive a go-kart. In my opinion, a minimum of ¾ of an acre is the yard needed for a go kart. Teach your child to drive with one foot on the pedal—be it the brake or the gas but not to press on both pedals at the same time. You either want to go or to stop but you cannot do them both at the same time.

Changing the size of the tires. Putting on tires that are larger than what came with the kart will result in clutch problems. Tires exceeding 13″ in diameter stress out a clutch if the kart is not properly geared for the larger tires. If you are driving on smooth flat terrain than you may be able to get by with 14″ tires but once you get on hilly terrain, deep grass, then you are putting additional strain on the clutch, which will cause premature wear. Big tires look neat on a go-kart but you create your own problem changing to a bigger tire when the clutch isn’t designed to handle them.

Weight. A centrifugal clutch is designed to be able to move a certain amount of weight. Once the weight limit is exceeded, then the life of the clutch will be shortened. A good rule of thumb is the kart and driver (and passenger when it is a two seat kart) should not exceed 400 pounds. The kart weighs around 150 pounds add to this the driver (and passenger weight, if it is a two seater kart). If you know ahead of time that you will exceed the 400 pounds then buy a torque converter go-kart and avoid the problems of burning up the clutch asking it to do more than it was designed for.

Gear ratio. The sprocket on the engine and the one on the rear axle should have a ratio close to 1:6. This means for every tooth on the clutch there are six teeth on the rear sprocket. So if you count 10 teeth on the clutch there should be 60 teeth on the rear sprocket. (12 teeth on the clutch means a 72 teeth rear sprocket). A torque converter has a variable speed system between the driver and the driven pulleys so it can improve upon this ratio, which gives the torque converter an advantage over a straight clutch system. It improves the ratio by approximately 3:1 and can turn larger tires and drive at slower speeds without doing any damage to the clutch system. A torque converter is a more expensive system initially but it will last longer and is more trouble free when maintained.

Restrictions. Don’t try and reduce a go-kart speed by limiting the travel of the gas pedal or by putting a restrictor in the carburetor to limit full rpm. Either of these methods will result in the clutch slipping, which is self-destructive. A clutch needs full rpm to lock up as quickly as possible to be able to start to cool down. To slow down a go-kart you would need to purchase a gear reduction unit, which is like training wheels on a go-kart until the driver gets use to how the go-kart handles. A gear reduction unit can reduce the speed of the go-kart in half.

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How to Install a Bike Kickstand

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Cruisers, comfort, vintage and kids’ bikes feature kickstands. And practical utility bikes with baskets or racks may work best with kickstands. Mountain, road and high-end bikes usually skip the kickstand to save weight and remain streamlined. A simple, frame-mounted kickstand is the most common.

Items you will need
14 mm wrench
Hacksaw (optional)

Step 1
Inflate the tires to the recommended pressure, printed or embossed on the side of the tire. This ensures that your bike is the right height when you install the kickstand.

Step 2
Separate the clamp from the kickstand. The clamp is a plate with a large bolt penetrating it.

Step 3
Position the kickstand under the bike, directly behind the point where chain stays meet the bottom bracket. The plate should span the space between the chain stays. There may be two ridges the kickstand fits between on the bottom.

Step 4
Place the clamp with its bolt pointing straight down on top of the chain stays, directly above the kickstand plate. Thread the bolt with your fingers into the threaded hole in the kickstand and tighten it finger tight.

Step 5
Spin the pedals with one hand to check for contact with the kickstand. Check for cables that might be pinched or caught and adjust them as needed, repositioning the kickstand if necessary. Open the kickstand and allow it to support the bike. Reposition the kickstand if the angle, or position is insufficient to support the bike.

Step 6
Close the kickstand. Snug the clamp bolt using a 14 mm wrench. Get on the bike and pedal it in an area out of traffic. If you hear tapping or the kickstand is obviously rubbing on the pedal or your foot, adjust as needed until the bike pedals smoothly and quietly. Tighten the bolt securely with the wrench when you are satisfied.

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The Difference Between Folding & Regular Bicycle Tires

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Most adult bike tires come in different styles. There are mountain bike tires and road bike tires. Within these two styles there are types, the two most common being folding and “regular,” or wire bead tires.

Difference
The difference between folding and regular bike tires is the bead. The bead is the inside edge of the tire that contacts the wheel.

A folding bike tire，the same material used in bulletproof vests. A regular bike tire has a bead made of wire.

Folding
Folding bike tires are more expensive than wire bead tires. Folding bike tires are easier to change and can be changed without the aid of tire levers. Wire bead tires require tire levers to change.

Practicality
Folding bike tires are lighter and more often used for racing and high-end bikes. Folding bike tires make better spare tires because they can be easily tucked inside a pack or jersey.

Mountain or road
Wire bead, or “regular,” bike tires are more often used on mountain bikes. Folding tires are more often used on road bikes.

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How to Attach a Bike Trailer to a Bike

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Biking is a great family activity. Young children who cannot ride yet could feel left out, but the next-best thing is to pull them behind the bike in a trailer. Bike trailers easily attach to the rear axle or seat post of a bike. Learn to securely attach the trailer to a bike so they won’t become separated during a ride.

Items you will need
Wrench set
Bike
Bike trailer

Step 1
Determine what type of bike trailer hitch system you have. There are quick-release skewers and fixed-nut attachments. The quick-release skewer is just a squeeze clamp and strap that attaches around the bike seat post. The fixed-nut attachment is a horizontal hole through the trailer hitch that will bolt to the rear bike wheel.

Step 2
Unscrew the nut holding on the rear tire. This is necessary for the fixed-nut attachment bike trailer hitches.

Step 3
Slide the fixed-nut attachment trailer hitch over the rear wheel bolt protruding through the bike frame. Screw the nut back on tightly.

Step 4
Wrap the strap around the bike seat post under the bike seat. This is necessary for the quick-release skewer bike trailer hitches.

Step 5
Squeeze the clamp on the quick-release skewer. Feed the strap back through the quick-release skewer on the bike trailer. Release the clamp on the quick-release skewer. Pull the strap tight.

See the source image

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How to Adjust a 50cc Carburetor

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Carburetor adjustment does not require an engineering degree, but some mechanical ability is necessary. Whether it is a stock or aftermarket carburetor, you will need to consider the temperature, altitude and humidity as these can have an effect on how well it is set up. These environmental factors determine how the fuel-to-air mixture runs through the carburetor. For example, in a higher altitude there is less air for your motor and the fuel-to-air mixture will be richer. Thus, your carburetor will need to be adjusted to accomodate less air in the atmosphere.

Items you will need
Screwdrivers
Carburetor needle
Tachometer

Adjust the idle speed by locating the small spring-loaded screw which is usually located next to the throttle control. If you have a tachometer, turn the screw until you reach an idle speed between 1500 and 2000 rpm. If you do not have a tachometer, set it for a low idle speed; not so slow that the engine stumbles or stalls, but not so fast that the clutch won’t try to engage and move the vehicle forward.

Adjust the fuel-to-air ratio (FTA) by locating the slotted idle mixture screw near the air-cleaner side of the carburetor. With the engine off, turn the screw all the way in counting the number of turns it takes. This is your baseline, if you are not happy with the adjustments.

Turn the screw back to the baseline, start the engine and let it warm up for five to ten minutes. With the engine idling, turn the idle mixture screw clockwise in ¼ turn increments until the engine drops in speed. Count how many turns this takes.

Turn the screw counter clockwise in ¼ turn increments until the engine revs back up and drops again. Count how many turns this takes. Divide this number in half to find out where the optimal point is. Turn the screw in that number of turns.

Fine tune with ¼ turn increments to find the optimal point that satisfies you. You may have to go back and adjust the idle speed screw if the idle is now too fast.

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How to Tune a Pocket Bike Engine

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Pocket bikes are miniature versions of road and dirt racing motorbikes. They are 60 percent smaller than their full-sized siblings. It’s hard to believe that a six foot adult can ride a bike this small and even more surprising that some can go as fast as 75 miles per hour. The cheapest and easiest way to maximize a pocket bike’s performance is by adjusting its fuel/air mixture. This process of fine tuning the fuel/air ratio for all engine operating conditions is called tuning. Since tuning can make your engine more responsive from idle all the way to full throttle, it’s well worth doing.

Items you will need
Bottle of white out
Small flat head screwdriver
Needle nose pliers

Mark the throttle. Do this by putting a whiteout mark near the front of the stationary housing (the side furthest from you when you’re sitting on the bike) and another mark aligned with it on the throttle grip. This is the reference point where the throttle is fully closed. Open the throttle all the way and put another mark on the stationary housing that aligns with the new location of the mark on your throttle grip. This mark will be near the back of the stationary housing (the side closest to you when you’re sitting on the bike). Put three more evenly spaced marks between the first two marks to represent 1/4 throttle, 1/2 throttle and 3/4 throttle. These marks will indicate how far open your throttle is and what adjustments need to be made.

Adjust the idle screw that regulates the fuel/air mixture from no throttle to 1/4 throttle. Begin by starting the engine and waiting for it to warm up. When it has, use the flat head screwdriver to turn the carburetor idle screw until the throttle valve begins to open and the engine is idling smoothly. Turn the idle screw in either direction until the engine reaches its maximum RPM. As soon as it does, turn the idle screw back until the RPM falls to 1000, then turn it back up again until the engine reaches its maximum RPM. If your carburetor doesn’t have an idle system with an idle screw, skip this step.

Adjust the needle and needle jet that regulates your fuel/air mixture from 1/4 to 3/4 throttle. Go for a ride on a smooth empty road with your throttle open 1/4 of the way. Slowly roll up to the 3/4 position and listen to the engine. Is it running lean or rich? Turn the throttle back to 1/4 open then snap it up quickly to the 3/4 position. How did it feel when you accelerated quickly? Was it running rich or lean? If the engine feels rich, you can lean it out by moving the C clip on the needle up a notch with your needle nose pliers. If it feels lean, you can make the mixture richer by moving the C clip down a notch. Repeat the testing cycle every time you move the clip one notch until the engine has maximum power without getting too lean. The safest way to do this is by starting with your C clip in the bottom notch of the needle and gradually moving it up until your engine reaches peak power.

Adjust the main jet that regulates your fuel/air mixture from 3/4 to full throttle. The main jet has a hole that controls fuel flow, and these jets come in different hole sizes. Start your tuning process with the main jet that has the largest hole and work your way down through smaller holes until you find a jet that’s just right. You can do this by going on a test ride with your throttle between 3/4 and wide open, then going to full throttle for a minute. Listen to your engine. Does it sound too lean or too rich? Back off immediately if your engine sounds lean, but this shouldn’t be a problem, since the large hole will make your engine run rich. To lean out the mixture, switch to the jet with the next smallest hole size and continue testing with consecutively smaller jets until your engine is at its best between 3/4 and full throttle. It’s probably wise to go one hole size larger at this point, since an overly lean mixture will destroy your engine.

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How to Replace the Rear Tire on a 3 Speed Bicycle

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Three-speed bicycles, are know for their ease of use, reliability and ride quality. Unfortunately, without a general knowledge of the workings of a three-speed hub, replacing a flat tire on the rear wheel of these bicycles can be very difficult.

Disconnect the shifter cable. Use a 10 mm wrench to loosen the shifter cable locknut (found near the adjuster at the rear of the bike) slightly. Unscrew the shifter cable adjuster until it comes free from the shifter chain, and move it out of your way.

Disconnect the coaster brake mount. Use a screwdriver to remove the mounting screw that holds it in place. Set the screw aside so as not to lose it.

Loosen the axle bolts with a 15 mm wrench, and pull the wheel out of the dropouts. You do not have to remove these bolts completely.

Remove the tire from the rim and the tube from the tire if it is stuck inside. You may want to check the inside of the tire by running a hand or rag through it to make sure the object that caused the flat isn’t still lodged in the tire.

Put one bead of the tire on the rim. Be sure to make note of any markers of rotation direction.

Put the stem of the new tube through the valve hole in the rim and mount the remaining side of the tire. Inflate with a bicycle pump or CO2 cartridge.

Put the wheel back into the dropouts, set the chain in place and tighten the 15 mm axle bolts. Make sure the chain is tight, or it may fall off while riding.

Replace the coaster brake mount screw on the left side of the bicycle.

Replace the shifter cable by twisting the adjuster onto the shifter chain until it reaches the 10 mm locknut. Tighten the locknut against the adjuster, and make sure the bicycle shifts the way it should.

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How to Convert Your Bicycle to an Electric Bicycle

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Riding a bicycle is a great non-polluting way to get exercise and get around, but a steep hill or a long commute can turn into an unpleasantly sweaty affair. Converting a bicycle into an electric bicycle can create a vehicle with all the advantages of a regular bike, but with a little power assist to get past the disadvantages. You can assemble a set of components on your own or buy a matched kit.

Items you will need
Bicycle
Bicycle tools
Electric motor
Controller
Throttle
Battery pack
Battery charger
Mounting hardware

Select a bicycle to convert. An electric bicycle can travel at higher speeds, so choose a comfortable bicycle with good brakes, a strong frame and possibly a suspension system.

Install a motor. Electric motors for bicycles come in several different forms, but the simplest to install is a brushless DC hub motor that is already laced into a spoked wheel rim. Most systems are available for use on the front or the rear but should be installed on a wheel without shock absorbers. Mount an inner tube and tire on the new rim with the motor. Remove the old wheel from the bicycle and make adjustments to the frame dropouts or forks so that the new wheel will fit.

Install a controller and throttle. The controller regulates the delivery of power to the motor and in turn, the speed at which you travel. Some higher power controllers may need to be mounted in a spot on the bike frame or rear rack with good air flow to prevent overheating. The throttle can be a thumb lever or twist grip placed on the handlebars.

Mount a battery pack. Batteries can be placed in panniers or on a rack behind the seat. Choose from sealed lead-acid batteries, lithium-ion batteries, or lithium iron phosphate nano batteries. Lithium iron phosphate batteries are more expensive, but they are lighter and will endure many more charge cycles than the other types of batteries.

Connect the motor to the controller. Run wires along the frame to connect the controller to the throttle. Wire the battery pack to the controller.

Charge the battery pack. Make sure that the new wheel with the motor is tightly bolted to the frame and that all the electrical connections are secure and properly insulated. Road test the bicycle.

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How to Wire a Motorcycle Ignition

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A motorcycle ignition consists of components that produce spark for the engine’s spark plugs. The components are linked by wiring circuits that receive power from a source, which is either a magneto or 12-volt battery. An ignition switch turns the system on and off. Motorcycle ignitions vary from one manufacturer to the next, but all systems work on the same principle. The primary requirements for wiring an ignition system are knowledge of electrical wiring connections and the wiring schematic for your motorcycle. The latter is provided in your service manual. You wire a motorcycle ignition with the components installed.

Items you will need
Service manual (year and model of your motorcycle)
Insulated electrical wire (colors and gauge specified in your manual)
Electrical wiring tools
Wiring connectors
Plastic wire shield
Nylon ties

Setting Up
Look at the electrical schematic in your service manual and find the diagram of the ignition switch or key switch. It should be in the upper portion of the schematic.

Identify the terminal labeled “Battery” among the connections shown on the ignition switch diagram. Follow the path of the battery wire from the switch to the next connection point. If your motorcycle has a starter, the next point should be the solenoid. Otherwise, the next point is most likely a rectifier or voltage regulator.

Continue to follow the path of the battery-related wires. Become familiar with the connections by locating each one on the particular components on your motorcycle. This circuit is the power source for the ignition system.

Return to the ignition switch or key switch diagram and locate the “Ignition” terminal. Follow the path of one or more wires from the ignition terminal. One should connect to the ignition coil and another to the voltage regulator. Other wires connect to the “Accessory” circuit that powers the lights and horn.

Make a diagram of the wiring circuits showing path of the wires from each connection point to the components. Label each wire in your diagram with the color given in the schematic. The diagram is your guide and the wiring schematic is your backup to double check things as you go.

Wiring the Ignition
Organize the spools or coils of colored insulated wire on a workbench. Refer to your diagram and determine which colors are used for the circuit that begins at the battery terminal on the ignition switch. Do the same for the wires leading from the ignition terminal on the switch.

Measure and cut lengths of the specified color wires for the circuits leading from the battery terminal and the ignition terminal to each component. Cut the shorter pieces 6 inches longer than your measurements. Cut the longer pieces 12 inches longer. This gives you enough to attach wire connectors and fasten longer runs to the motorcycle frame.

Cut lengths of plastic wire shield for the longer wire runs. You can combine the runs to some components in one length of wire shield. The color codes tell you which wires connect to a particular terminal on each component. Label or mark the wires if you like.

Strip one end of all wires and attach the appropriate connectors to each. Start at the ignition switch, making the connections as shown in your diagram. Fasten the wire shield to the motorcycle frame with nylon ties as you go.

Refer to your diagram and the wiring schematic in the service manual. You can cut the wires to length and attach the remaining connectors once you are confident with the ignition wiring. Make the final connections at all the ignition components.

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