Teach you how to test the sensor with a multimeter

  1. Clean The Throttle

Before diving into your throttle position sensor with a multimeter, you have to take some preliminary steps.

One of these is to clean your throttle, as it could be the debris on it that prevents it from opening or closing properly.

Disconnect the air cleaner assembler from the throttle position sensor and check the throttle plate and walls for any carbon buildup.

Dampen a rag with a carburetor cleaner and wipe away any debris where you see a build-up of it.

Once you have done this, ensure the throttle fully opens and closes properly.

It’s time to move to the throttle position sensor.

These wires or connector tabs are important for our tests.

If you’re having trouble finding the wires, see our guide on how to trace wires.

Check the TPS wires and terminals for damage and a build-up of dirt. Take care of any impurities and proceed to the next step.

  1. Locate The Throttle Position Sensor Grounding 

Finding the throttle position grounding determines if you have a problem and also helps with subsequent tests.

Set your multimeter to the 20 DC voltage range, turn your ignition to the “on” position without starting the engine, and then place the red positive probe on the positive car battery post (tagged “+”).

Now, place the black negative probe on each of the TPS wire tabs or terminals.

You do this until one shows you a reading of 12 volts. This is your ground terminal and your TPS has passed this test.

  1. Find The Reference Voltage Terminal

With your car ignition still in the “on” position and the multimeter set to the 10 DC voltage range, place the black lead on the ground TPS terminal and place the red lead on each of the other two terminals.

The terminal that presents you with about 5 volts is the reference voltage terminal.

If you don’t get any 5-volt reading, then there is a problem within your TPS circuit and you may check for loose or corroded wiring.

Connect the wires back into the throttle position sensors and move to the next step.

  1. Test The TPS Signal Voltage 

The signal voltage test is the ultimate test that determines if your throttle position sensor is functioning properly or not.

It helps to diagnose whether the TPS accurately reads the throttle plate when it is fully open, halfway open, or closed.

Set the multimeter to the 10 DC voltage range, place the black probe on the ground TPS terminal, and place the red probe on the signal voltage terminal.

In this case, you use pins to back probe the wires (poke each TPS wire with a pin) and attach your multimeter probes to these pins (preferably using alligator clips).

The value displayed depends on the model of your TPS.

If the multimeter shows a reading of zero (0), you may still proceed to the next steps.

Gradually open the throttle plate and watch how the readings on the multimeter change.

Your multimeter is expected to display a steadily increasing value as you open up the throttle.

When the plate is fully open, the multimeter is also expected to display 5 volts (or 3.5 volts in some TPS models).

The TPS is not in good condition and needs to be changed if you experience the following:

  • If the value massively skips while opening the plate.
  • If the value gets stuck at a number for a long period.
  • If the value doesn’t reach 5 volts when the throttle plate is fully opened
  • If the value inappropriately skips or changes when you lightly tap the sensor with a screwdriver

All these are representations of a TPS that needs to be replaced.

However, if your throttle position sensor is an adjustable model, like those found in older vehicles, then there is more to do before deciding to replace the sensor.

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Tell you 3 reasons why oil enters the air filter

1. A Clogged Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) Valve

The PCV valve is connected to an air intake housing via an often-rubber vacuum hose used to provide a vacuum release inside the engine’s crankcase. This component is typically installed on top of a cylinder head valve cover, where pressure flows from the engine’s bottom half, through the cylinder heads, and exits into the air intake. The PCV valve is similar to an engine oil filter in that it eventually becomes clogged with excessive debris (in this case — engine oil) and should be replaced as recommended by your vehicle’s manufacturer. If the PCV valve is not replaced as recommended, excessive oil will blow through the PCV valve and enter the air intake system.

2. Worn Piston Rings

A second potential source of engine oil leaking into the air filter housing is due to worn piston rings. The piston rings are installed on the outer edge of the pistons inside the combustion chamber. The rings are intended to create a combustion ratio and permit small amounts of engine oil to continue lubricating the inner combustion chamber during each piston stroke. When rings wear out, they loosen and can cause oil ‘blow-by’ — usually displayed by blue smoke coming from the car’s tailpipe while driving. In the early stages of worn piston rings, excessive oil blow-by can cause excessive pressure to build inside the crankcase, which sends more oil through the PCV valve and eventually into the air intake, as stated above.

3. Clogged Oil Passages

The final possible reason engine oil will find its way into the air intake system and eventually clog the air filter is due to clogged oil passages. This symptom usually occurs when the engine oil and filter have not been replaced as recommended. It is caused by excessive carbon deposits or engine sludge developing inside the crankcase. When the oil does not flow efficiently, excessive engine oil pressure will be created and cause extra oil to push through the PCV valve and into the air intake.

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Tells you what happens when the brake pads are worn

One of the first things you learn about when you start your driving endeavors is the mechanisms of the gas pedal and the brake. You may have learned this by playing an arcade car racing game, or maybe you learned it from your favorite cartoon as a child. We should know that taking care of your brakes is essential for your Clermont Toyota because driving with worn out brake pads is not a good idea. Toyota of Clermont experts explain what happens when your car brake pads are worn out , what brake pads are, and signs it’s time to replace them.

What are brake pads?

Brake pads are there to contact your rotors and cause friction to slow and stop your car.

Symptoms of worn brake pads.

  • Grinding or squealing noise when you press the brake pedal (the brake pad material has deteriorated).
  • On your newer Clermont Toyota cars, you will get a brake wear indicator on your dashboard when it’s time to check your brake pads.
  • If you notice that it’s taking your Clermont Toyota longer than it usually does to stop, you need to replace your brake pads.
  • Your brake pedal is vibrating when you press on; it is a sign that worn brake pads are likely the cause.

What happens when your car brake pads are worn out? Toyota of Clermont answers.

They cause slow response time.

Driving with worn out brake pads can cause a slow response time when braking, leading to your Clermont Toyota not braking quick enough. Therefore, getting your Clermont Toyota into the service center is essential to get your brake pads replaced to have a worry-free driving experience. A potential car accident is what happens when your car brake pads are worn out.

It can lead to damage to your tires.

However, one of the easiest and most expensive issues it could cause would be your Clermont Toyota tires. Simple enough, if you don’t have the proper cushion that is an effect of worn-down brake pads, you’ll have more rough stops driving with worn out brake pads, causing your tires to take a toll on them.

More severe damage to your brakes

The brake pads are just one aspect of a more extensive mechanism. They are the cushion against your brake rotors to create friction and slow down your wheels. Unfortunately, what happens when your car brake pads are worn out is it exposes the metal, and the metal on metal grinding can further damage the entire braking system through heat and possible breakage.

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Tell you why the shock absorber is worn out

Reasons For Commercial Vehicle Shock Wear:
Deterioration Through Normal Operation
Each mile of operation averages 1,750 stabilizing actions.

  • 22 million cycles occur – on average – at 12,425 miles / 20,000 km
  • 88 million cycles occur – on average – at 49,700 miles / 80,000 km
  • 132 million cycles occur – on average – at 74,550 miles / 120,000 km

Hydraulic Fluid Deterioration
Over time, the internal hydraulic fluid loses viscosity, impairing the unit’s ability to dissipate road impacts.

Deterioration of Shock Components
The components within a shock absorber are made of metal, rubber and plastic, all of which eventually degrade through extended use, extreme heat, and adverse road and weather conditions.

Determination of a Qualified Service Provider
Not all symptoms of shock deterioration are readily discernable; after a thorough inspection, a qualified service provider may determine your truck’s shocks have worn to the extent that those units require replacement.

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Teach you how to test a damaged relay

Step 1

When working under the hood, you don’t want the vehicle to move forward accidentally.

Step 2

Before testing, prepare a fully charged battery and a portable jumper.During the whole test, please pay attention to how to connect the jumper cable to the battery terminal.

Step 3

Check the connection terminals on the battery and starter. Make sure they are free of rust, oil, dust and debris. Before cleaning corroded terminals, disconnect the negative battery cable and set it aside. Remove the battery positive cable from the battery and set it aside. Take care to prevent the cables from accidentally contacting the battery terminals. Use baking soda, water and a wire brush to clean the rusty terminals. If necessary, clean the starter terminal. If possible, disconnect the battery cable.

Step 4

There are four terminals on the relay.Two larger wires connect from the battery to the starter, carrying the battery voltage.Connect one end of the jumper wire to the chassis ground.

Step 5

Connect a jumper wire to the positive terminal of the battery.Its resistance should be less than 1 ohm. If the resistance is greater than 1 ohm, the relay does not work.

How to replace the starting relay?

1) How to disassemble the starting relay correctly?

You can open the hood and disconnect the negative connection of the battery if it is a fuse box to start the relay. Next find the fuse box. Usually a box with a black lid. If you cannot find the starting relay, please use the instructions. Determine the position of the starting relay according to the information on the fuse box cover. Then, remove the starting relay.

2) How to install the starting relay

The process of installing the fuse box starter relay is simple. There are no nuts or screws to tighten, and no need to worry about torque.

Bring your new relay. Push the relay in slowly and slowly until it reaches the end of the valve seat, matching the pins with the slots in the fuse box.

Follow the steps below to install the start relay on the mudguard.

Place the relay on the mounting surface and fix it there. By inserting and tightening the screws, attach the relay to the fender wall. Install the starter circuit and battery wires, taking care not to connect the wrong wires to the wrong poles.

3) Wiring of starting relay

Step1

Disconnect the positive terminal of the battery. To avoid accidents, please fix the bare end. You can do it with tape.

Step 2

Connect it to a large stud or upright of the relay. Tighten the mounting bolts to secure the connection. Because the starter relay has no polarity, which large one do you connect the wire to

Step 3

Prepare ignition switch wiring. They are usually thinner than starting cables because they only carry a limited amount of current.

In some relay races there is only one small post. If this is the case, connect the ignition wire to the mounting screw or bolt.

Fourth

Connect the remaining thick wires to a single huge stud or pole. This is the cable connecting the positive terminal of the battery.

Finally, turn on the ignition switch to test the relay wire. There should be no difficulty in starting the engine and cranking.

Teach you how to adjust the carburetor

  1. Remove the Engine Air FilterThe air cleaner and filter assembly must be removed for you to access the carburetor.
  2. Locate Adjustment Screws. Before beginning, you should familiarize yourself with the location of the idle mixture and idle speed screws.
  3. (Optional): Hook up Vacuum Gauge. If you are using a vacuum gauge for this process, you should find and connect it to a manifold vacuum port before starting the engine.
  4. (Optional): Set Baseline. If the carburetor is new or has been rebuilt, you should set it to “factory” adjustment. You can do so by adjusting the idle mixture screws to 1.5-2 turns out, and the idle speed screw to 1-1.5 turns in.
  5. Warm the Engine Up. The engine’s running temperature directly correlates with proper air and fuel mixtures. So, be sure to let the engine run and reach normal operating temperatures before proceeding.
  6. (Optional): Adjust Idle Speed Screw. If you set a baseline in step 4, chances are idle is a little high. Be sure to adjust it so that you start with the engine’s normal running speed. You may need to perform this during warm up if the idle speed is too high after reverting to “factory” spec.
  7. Adjust the Air-Fuel Mixture. Begin by adjusting the idle mixture screws by 1/8 turn increments in or out. Be sure to adjust each in direct relation to the other as you proceed if you have more than one idle screw (most two and four-barrel carburetors do).

Teach you how to clean a motorcycle carburetor without disassembly

Cleaning Carbs Without Removing Them

It’s no wonder people are researching how to clean the carbs on their motorcycle without having to take it off. A lot of issues associated with how a motorcycle is running is usually because of carburetor issues and the fact that they’re not clean inside. Issues like this that frequently happen can make cleaning a daunting task if you have to remove it every time.

Most motorcycle carburetors sit behind the engine towards the center of the motorcycle. A lot of people don’t want to have to deal with taking the throttle cable off or deal with the intake boots. In order to clean it without taking it completely off the bike, you’ll need to first take off the air box or pod filters. This is easily done and they can easily be reinstalled when you’re finished.

Removing the air intake filters will then expose the back of the carburetor so you should be able to see the butterfly valves opening and closing when turning the throttle. Removing these gives you better access to the carburetor. Now you’ll need to take off the bowl at the bottom of the carburetor.

There’s usually a center bolt or a few screws around the side of the bowl that will need to be taken off in order for the bowl to detach. These are very simple to take off and should only take a few minutes. Also make sure you turn your petcock to the off position so you don’t have gas running out. Have some paper towels handy because you’ll likely have a little bit of gas that leaks once you take those bottom bowls off.

When the bowl is off, you can attempt to spray some carb cleaner up inside. Do a few sprays every few minutes to let any dirt and grime become loose. Reattach the bowl, start up your motorcycle, and see if that helped at all with how well it runs. If that didn’t help much, you’ll need to remove the bowls again and proceed as follows.

Once the bowl is off again, you’ll see some floats up inside the carburetor (similar to the floats you see in the tank of a toilet tank). These floats rise when the bowl fills with gas and tells the carburetor to shut off the fuel valve to prevent it from overflowing.

You’ll need to take off the float as well in order to access what’s behind it. These are attached by a small wrist pin that you should easily be able to push through to detach the float. When you remove the float, there will be a rocket ship shaped part that is connected to it with a rubber tip. That tip is what plugs up the line to prevent overflowing. The float and this rocket shaped part will come off together.

While the floats are out, I usually like to test them and make sure they’re still good. Get a bowl of water and put them in to see if they actually float. If they don’t float, you’ll need to get new ones as this could cause mechanical issues with your motorcycle later on.

Now that the float is off, you’ll need to look up inside the carburetor and unscrew the jets. There’s usually at least two in there; one is a primary jet and the other is a secondary jet. Look through the jets once they’re out and make sure you can see through them.

Clean out the jets whether or not you can see through them. This will ensure you’re getting out any gunk that may be building up inside that you can’t see. Use carb cleaner a few times at several minute intervals to make sure you get everything out.

Now you can spray carb cleaner all over the carburetor. Spray up inside again and even spray some on the outside. Wait several minutes before reinstalling all the parts again so the cleaner has time to clean and drip off all the dirt. Reinstall the jets, the float, then lastly install the bowl on the bottom.

You can now try starting your motorcycle and make sure your cleaning was thorough by seeing how well your motorcycle runs. It’s okay to keep the air intake filters off for this stage in case you need to access the carburetor again. Once you deem the carburetor is clean, you can install the intake filters.

Tell you the common reasons for ignition coil failure

Common faults in ignition coils

Diagnosing faulty ignition coils
Ignition coils take power from the battery and relay it to the spark plugs igniting the fuel and makes your vehicle run.  There are some common signs to look out for when looking to diagnose a faulty ignition coil.

Poor Fuel Economy
A reduced performance in vehicle economy and lower MPG could be a sign of an ignition coil failure. Less power reaching the spark plug means vehicles struggle and expend more fuel to compensate for insufficient power.

Vehicle Backfiring
A backfiring vehicle can be an early symptom of an ignition coil failure. The cause of this is unused fuel, emitted through the exhaust system. If the issue is not addressed, serious damage can also be done to the exhaust, resulting in preventable and expensive repairs.

Vehicle Stalling
With ignition coil failure, vehicles have irregular sparks emitting to the plugs to keep the vehicle running, resulting in stalling. When the vehicle is brought to a stop, it may shut off totally, forcing a restart.

Problems starting the vehicle
Check your high tension leads (HT Leads). They run between the distributor and spark plugs. Ignition coil failures result in 1 or more spark plugs not receiving the appropriate amount of charge. If you have trouble starting your vehicle in the cold, this is a good sign of potential ignition coil failure. You can run a simple test on the HT leads to check that there is in fact a spark going from each lead to each spark plug.

Common causes for ignition coils failing

Damaged or worn spark plugs
If the spark plugs are worn out, it forces ignition coils to operate at a much higher output. Keeping your spark plug in optimum condition can reduce your chances of experiencing an ignition coil failure.

As spark plugs wear down, the gap in each spark plug is fired is widened meaning the coil needs to provide a higher voltage in order to bridge the gap. This additional strain on the ignition coil may cause voltage overload leading to overheating and eventually failure.

Vibrations
Vibrations can damage ignition coil windings and insulation causing shorts or breaks in the secondary windings.

Overheating
The overheating of ignition coils can hinder their ability to conduct electricity.

Wear and tear
Wear and tear is a common reason for ignition coils failing. It causes degrading of the insulation between the primary and secondary coil windings and the primary coil. The reduction in insulation can cause the coil to overheat.

Tells you when to replace steering and suspension bushings

Bushings may seem small, but they play a big role in driver comfort and longevity of a vehicle’s steering and suspension system. A bushing acts as a cushion between parts and controls the amount of movement in the joints while reducing road noise, vibration and harshness. Steering and suspension bushings can deteriorate over time due to stress from constant movement, friction, heat and exposure to dirt and contaminants such as road salts and lubricants. Since a worn or damaged bushing will negatively impact these functions, it is important to inspect them regularly and replace whenever necessary.

Signs of bushing wear

When bushings completely fail, metal-to-metal contact will occur between joints and connected parts, which will significantly decrease the life of the affected parts. Steering and suspension components can be expensive to replace, so it is important to install new bushings at the first sign of deterioration. A visual bushing inspection will show damaged or worn bushings, such as tears in the rubber or breaks in the rubber-to-metal bonding. Tire wear is also a good indicator of front and / or rear suspension issues. Outside of a visual inspection, other symptoms of worn or damaged bushings before complete failure include:

Tech tips for replacing bushings

When replacing a bush there are a few things to bear in mind:

  • Use the correct bushing for the vehicle – although on the surface they may look the same, there are many internal features designed for the specific application.
  • Replace sway bar bushings in pairs.
  • Always carry out a dimensional check of the part before fitting.
  • Remember to torque tighten the fixings with the vehicle on the ground before you take it for a test drive. Failure to do so could put unnecessary stress on the bushing in the wrong position, resulting in premature failure.
  • Some bushings can be difficult to replace and may need specialized tools. In this case, it can be more economical to replace the entire component rather than just the bushing. For example, some control arm bushings cannot be replaced separately, so the control arm will have to be replaced entirely.

The necessity of winter tire maintenance

The necessity of winter tire maintenance
A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step and maintains the road
In the cold winter, it is inevitable that there will be snowstorms and icy roads. It is not only a test for the driving skills of riders, but also a test for the tires themselves. If you want to drive safely, the normal function of the tires is of course inseparable. Therefore, it is particularly important to pay attention to and adjust the condition of the tires.

Winter tire taboo

Safe driving requires “degree”
Avoid foreign bodies
When the temperature drops, the tires are prone to “stiff”, lose their elasticity, and their cushioning capacity is significantly reduced. When they hit sharp foreign objects, they are easy to burst.

Avoid sudden brakes
Low temperature makes the tires hard and brittle, starting too fast, sudden steering, emergency braking, etc., will cause serious wear of the tires and reduce the service life of the tires.
Avoid lack of breath
When the air pressure drops to a certain level, the deformation of the sidewall will increase. Once the tread pattern is excessively worn, the carcass will be distorted and deformed due to the inability to withstand the excessive pressure, resulting in a puncture.

Attention in winter
Seasonal for maintenance
Pay attention to tire pressure
Affected by thermal expansion and contraction, the air pressure in the winter tire will also decrease. The tire pressure should be increased appropriately to reduce the wear of the tire, but it must be controlled within an appropriate range to ensure that the front and rear treads are in full contact with the ground. Best grip effect.

Parking conditions

Avoid parking in areas with damp, stagnant water and potholes in low temperatures to prevent the accumulated water from freezing the tires due to the low temperature and affecting the service life of the tires.

Watch out for wear

Pay attention to the degree of tire wear. If you reach the point indicated by the wear mark, you must replace the tire, because the shallow tire pattern is not conducive to drainage, it is easy to slip in rain and snow, and there is a risk of air leakage.

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